Four miles north of Tavistock, a conical hill composed of volcanic rock rises dramatically from the western foothills of Dartmoor. This is Brentor, and perched precariously on its summit stands the tiny church of St Michael, a sight that has captivated travellers and locals alike for nearly 900 years.
The hill itself has been a significant landmark since prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence showing it was once an Iron Age hill fort. The remnants of stone and earthwork fortifications can still be traced around its slopes, indicating its strategic importance long before the church was built. The church was originally built around 1140 by Robert Giffard at his own cost. He gave the church to the Abbey of Tavistock, together with some land lying around the hill. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it was known as ‘St Michael of the Rock’, an appropriate name given its dramatic setting.
Behind its construction lies an intriguing tale of survival and devotion. According to ancient tradition, Giffard was returning to Devon from foreign shores when his ship was suddenly caught in a terrible tempest. The sails were quickly torn to shreds by the fury of the wind, and massive waves swept the vessel from stem to stern. The terrified crew had given up all hope of keeping their ship afloat. Realising they were in desperate peril, Robert Giffard knelt upon the heaving deck and prayed fervently to St Michael for aid, vowing that if the vessel should reach Plymouth Sound safely, he would build a church dedicated to the saint on the highest tor in his lands, to serve as a landmark for other storm-tossed mariners.
Shortly after Giffard made his vow, the storm began to abate. Eventually, the badly battered vessel managed to reach the safety of Plymouth Sound, where all aboard gave thanks for their miraculous deliverance. True to his word, Giffard chose to build his promised church atop Brentor. However, the task would not be easy. The tor had long been considered the devil’s domain – fitting perhaps, given its volcanic origins – and legend tells that Satan deeply resented a church being built in what he considered his territory. The devil was only thwarted when the building was placed under the direct patronage of St Michael, the archangel who had cast Lucifer from Heaven.
The tiny church measures only 11.3 metres in length and 4.4 metres in width. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a low embattled tower at the western end. The south wall dates from the Norman period, while the rest of the structure is from the early thirteenth century, except for the tower which was probably added at the beginning of the fourteenth century.
A steep and stony path leads to the church, which can be seen as symbolic of the spiritual journey. The building’s exposed position means that worshippers must often battle fierce winds just to stand in the churchyard, and during storms, it’s easy to imagine St Michael and the forces of darkness still waging their ancient conflict around the tor.
Local tradition tells that on particularly stormy nights, when the wind howls around the tor, the sounds of this eternal battle can still be heard. Some say that the devil’s anger at being ousted from his domain caused the splitting of the rock beneath the church. Tristram Risdon, writing in the early seventeenth century, described the church as being ‘all alone, as it were forsaken, whose churchyard doth hardly afford depth of earth to bury the dead; yet doubtless they rest there as securely as in sumptuous St Peters, until the day of doom.’
On 15th June 1232, Henry III granted to the Abbot of Tavistock the right to hold a three-day fair at the church during the feast of St Michael (28th-30th September). This royal charter gives us a glimpse into the church’s historical significance beyond its dramatic location.
Today, though a more accessible church has been built at North Brent Tor, services are still held in the ancient building on the summit. At 344 metres above sea level, it’s one of the highest churches in England. The views from its commanding position are magnificent, and on clear days, visitors can see far across the Devon countryside to both Plymouth Sound and the Bristol Channel.
References:
- Salmon, “Dartmoor” (detailed architectural description and folklore)
- Prince, “Worthies of Devon” (historical context and early account)
- Risdon, “Survey of Devon” (17th century description)
- “Devon & Cornwall Notes & Queries” (archaeological evidence of hill fort)
- Trans. Devon. Assoc., Vol. 45 (details of the church’s construction and early history)
- Crossing, William, “Guide to Dartmoor” (local traditions and topographical details)
- Baring-Gould, S., “Book of the West” (folklore elements and devil legends)
- Royal Charter of Henry III, 1232 (fair grant documentation)]
